{"id":633,"date":"2026-05-13T18:44:16","date_gmt":"2026-05-13T18:44:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/fishing-reports.ai\/blog\/best-downriggers\/"},"modified":"2026-05-14T06:57:14","modified_gmt":"2026-05-14T06:57:14","slug":"best-downriggers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fishing-reports.ai\/blog\/best-downriggers\/","title":{"rendered":"Best Downriggers for Great Lakes Salmon Trolling"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Downriggers are the single most important piece of equipment in Great Lakes salmon fishing. By July, kings are 80\u2013120 feet down. Coho are 40\u201370 feet down. Lake trout are deeper still. Without downriggers, you simply cannot put a lure where the fish are. Lead core line and copper get you there with limitations; dipsy divers spread your coverage; but downriggers give you precise, repeatable depth control that nothing else can match.<\/p>\n\n

This guide breaks down what to buy for Great Lakes salmon trolling \u2014 manual vs electric, Cannon vs Scotty, what features matter, and where to spend your money at each budget level. The investment ranges from about $150 for a single manual unit to $1,500+ per side for top-end electric setups. Knowing what you actually need vs what marketing pushes saves real money.<\/p>\n\n

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\u26a1 Quick Picks by Situation<\/p>\n

Budget \/ first downrigger:<\/strong> Cannon Easi-Troll HS Manual<\/a> \u2014 proven manual at the lowest entry point.<\/p>\n

Mid-tier electric:<\/strong> Cannon Optimum 10 TS<\/a> \u2014 the workhorse electric for most Great Lakes anglers.<\/p>\n

Premium electric:<\/strong> Scotty 1106 Depthpower<\/a> \u2014 built-tough alternative for serious fishing.<\/p>\n

Essential accessory:<\/strong> 10 lb Downrigger Weight<\/a> \u2014 minimum weight for proper line angle.<\/p>\n

Release clips:<\/strong> Black’s Releases \/ Cannon Clips<\/a> \u2014 quality clips prevent missed strikes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n

Manual vs Electric: What’s Right for You?<\/h2>\n\n

The first decision is manual vs electric. The cost difference is significant \u2014 manuals run $150\u2013$300, electrics start around $700 and go to $1,500+ \u2014 but the operational difference matters more than the cost over the long run.<\/p>\n\n

Manual downriggers<\/strong> work when you have time, fewer rod setups, and aren’t fishing every day. You hand-crank the weight up after each strike or depth change. Setting depth takes 15\u201330 seconds. Two manual riggers running side-by-side is manageable. Four becomes a workout. For weekend anglers who do 6\u201310 trips a year and run 2\u20134 lines, manual is fine.<\/p>\n\n

Electric downriggers<\/strong> work when fishing time is precious or you’re running multiple rods. The button retrieves the weight in 10\u201315 seconds while you’re already netting the fish or resetting other lines. The depth counter is digital and precise. Anglers doing 30+ trips a season or running 4+ rods almost always step up to electric eventually. Charter captains use electric exclusively.<\/p>\n\n

The honest math: a serious recreational angler in their second or third year of salmon fishing usually wishes they’d bought electric from the start. The time saved over a season pays back the price difference in convenience.<\/p>\n\n

Manual Downriggers<\/h2>\n\n

Cannon Easi-Troll HS<\/h3>\n

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Buy it on Amazon<\/a><\/p>\n\n

The Cannon Easi-Troll HS is the entry point into serious downrigger fishing. The “HS” means “high-speed” \u2014 the gear ratio retrieves the weight faster than older Cannon manuals, which matters when you’re cranking up 80\u2013120 feet of cable repeatedly. The unit mounts to a transom or rail with the standard Cannon swivel base, and it comes with the depth counter and stainless cable already installed. For around $150\u2013200, you get a downrigger that produces fish identically to a $1,000 electric \u2014 the only difference is your shoulder gets the workout instead of a motor. Pair with a 10 lb weight<\/a> and Cannon release clips<\/a> and you’re ready to fish. Best use case: anglers running one or two downriggers, getting started, or working from a smaller boat where electric setups are overkill.<\/p>\n\n

Electric Downriggers<\/h2>\n\n

Cannon Optimum 10 TS<\/h3>\n

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Buy it on Amazon<\/a><\/p>\n\n

The Cannon Optimum 10 TS is the workhorse electric downrigger for Great Lakes anglers \u2014 not the cheapest, not the most expensive, but the one most charter captains and serious recreational anglers actually use. The “10” refers to the boom length (10 inches off the side of the boat, keeping cable clear of the transom). “TS” is “telescoping boom” \u2014 extends to about 4 feet for spreading lines further from the boat. Variable-speed retrieval, digital depth counter, programmable bottom tracking, and built-in transducer mount cover all the features you actually need. It connects to Cannon’s network so multiple units can sync depths if you’re building a high-end setup. Around $1,000\u20131,300 depending on configuration. The single most-recommended downrigger by Great Lakes charter captains.<\/p>\n\n

Scotty 1106 Depthpower<\/h3>\n

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Buy it on Amazon<\/a><\/p>\n\n

Scotty is the Canadian alternative to Cannon, and the 1106 Depthpower is the model that competes head-to-head with the Cannon Optimum. Scotty’s design philosophy is slightly different \u2014 heavier-duty construction, longer boom options, and a focus on saltwater durability that translates well to Great Lakes use. The 1106 Depthpower has the digital counter and variable-speed retrieval, and it’s known for surviving heavy use better than competing units. The mount is different from Cannon’s \u2014 Scotty uses a proprietary track system that integrates with their full line of accessories. If you’re starting fresh and considering Scotty’s ecosystem (downriggers, rod holders, planer board mast), the 1106 is the right entry point. About $1,100\u20131,400. Best for anglers who fish heavily, fish saltwater seasonally, or prefer Scotty’s heavier-duty build.<\/p>\n\n

Essential Accessories<\/h2>\n\n

The downrigger itself is only part of the system. These accessories are required, not optional:<\/p>\n\n

Downrigger Weights (Cannonballs)<\/h3>\n

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Buy it on Amazon<\/a><\/p>\n\n

The weight pulls your cable down and keeps the line angle vertical enough that depth reading matches reality. Too light a weight at trolling speed and the cable angles back so significantly that “60 feet of cable out” might mean “40 feet of actual depth.” For Great Lakes salmon trolling at 2.4\u20132.8 mph, 10 lb is the minimum useful weight. 12\u201314 lb is better for deeper fishing (100+ feet) or higher speeds. Get at least one weight per downrigger, plus one spare \u2014 break-offs happen, and you don’t want your trip ending because you lost your only ball at 80 feet down.<\/p>\n\n

Release Clips<\/h3>\n

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Buy it on Amazon<\/a><\/p>\n\n

The release clip holds your fishing line to the downrigger cable until a fish hits, then releases so the line is free to fight the fish off the rod. Cheap or worn-out clips either release too easily (you lose presentations every time the boat hits chop) or grip too hard (you miss strikes because the fish can’t pull the line free). Black’s Releases and Cannon’s own clips are the two reliable options. Pinch tension should be adjustable. Replace clips every 1\u20132 seasons of heavy use \u2014 they wear out.<\/p>\n\n

Choosing the Right Downrigger Setup<\/h2>\n\n

Match the rigger to your boat and use case:<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Setup<\/th>\nRecommendation<\/th>\nTotal Cost<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
First downrigger, small boat<\/td>\n1 \u00d7 Cannon Easi-Troll HS + 10 lb weight + clips<\/td>\n$200\u2013250<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
2 manual riggers<\/td>\n2 \u00d7 Cannon Easi-Troll HS + weights + clips<\/td>\n$400\u2013500<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
1 electric (transitional)<\/td>\n1 \u00d7 Cannon Optimum 10 TS + accessories<\/td>\n$1,100\u20131,400<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Mid-tier 2-electric setup<\/td>\n2 \u00d7 Cannon Optimum 10 TS + accessories<\/td>\n$2,200\u20132,800<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Heavy-duty 2-electric<\/td>\n2 \u00d7 Scotty 1106 Depthpower + accessories<\/td>\n$2,400\u20133,000<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Full charter-style 4-rigger<\/td>\n4 \u00d7 Cannon Optimum 10 TS + accessories<\/td>\n$4,500\u20135,500<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n

Mounting and Installation<\/h2>\n\n

How you mount the downrigger matters as much as which unit you buy. Three common mounting approaches:<\/p>\n\n

Transom mount<\/strong> \u2014 Cheapest, simplest. Through-bolt the swivel base to the rear transom of the boat. Works for smaller boats and starter setups. Limits how far you can spread the downriggers from the centerline.<\/p>\n\n

Gunnel mount<\/strong> \u2014 Through-bolt to the side gunnel near the back of the boat. Allows the downrigger boom to extend further from the boat (especially with telescoping booms), spreading your trolling spread wider. Standard for serious setups.<\/p>\n\n

Track mount<\/strong> \u2014 A length of aluminum track bolted along the gunnel that allows the downrigger to slide forward or back. Most flexible setup, used on charter boats and high-end recreational rigs. Allows quick repositioning between trips or even during a trip.<\/p>\n\n

For most owners, gunnel mounts on each side toward the rear of the boat is the right setup. Boom length should be enough that your weights run outside the prop wash but not so wide that they tangle with your dipsy diver lines.<\/p>\n\n

Common Mistakes<\/h2>\n\n

Buying too light a weight.<\/strong> 8 lb weights are common in starter kits, but they don’t pull the cable down hard enough for Great Lakes trolling speeds. Step up to 10 lb minimum, 12 lb for serious work. Cable angle matters more than people realize.<\/p>\n\n

Cheap clips.<\/strong> The release clip is where strikes are won or lost. Pay for quality clips and replace them as they wear. A $4 worn clip can cost you a $50 day’s worth of fish.<\/p>\n\n

Skipping the depth counter calibration.<\/strong> Electric downriggers have digital counters that need occasional calibration. If your counter says 60 feet but the weight is actually at 80 feet because of cable angle, your spread is wrong. Calibrate annually against a depth finder.<\/p>\n\n

Going electric on the wrong boat.<\/strong> Electric downriggers need significant battery capacity. If your boat’s electrical system can barely run a fish finder, adding two electrics will drain your battery in a day. Upgrade to dual batteries before adding electric riggers.<\/p>\n\n

Not learning to read the rigger.<\/strong> The downrigger isn’t just a depth tool \u2014 the bend of the cable, the way the weight tracks behind the boat, and the way the rigger reacts to bottom contact all give information. Anglers who watch their rigger setup learn what depth is producing without checking the counter.<\/p>\n\n

Gear to Pair with Your Downriggers<\/h2>\n\n